Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97

Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has died at age 97 at his home in Port Townsend, surrounded by family. He climbed to the 29,032-foot peak on May 1, 1963, a feat captured by his Sherpa climbing partner Nawang Gombu and remembered as a milestone in American mountaineering. Whittaker’s life bridged adventure and stewardship, leaving a lasting imprint on outdoor culture and industry.

Born in Seattle on February 10, 1929, Whittaker began climbing with his twin brother Lou as Boy Scouts in the 1940s. The brothers later scaled Washington state’s Mount Olympus, a 7,965-foot peak in the Olympic Mountains, marking the early spark of a lifelong passion for high altitude exploration. He would go on to become the first full-time employee and later president of Recreational Equipment Inc (REI), guiding a company that championed outdoor exploration for generations.

Whittaker’s Everest ascent stood alongside a pioneering era in U.S. mountaineering. In 1963, he joined a select group of climbers who had conquered the world’s highest summit, a moment that helped ignite a broader movement of exploration across the country. Decades later, he returned to Everest with his son, Leif, at the age of 83, underscoring a lifelong devotion to family and the mountains. His family described him as someone devoted to adventure, stewardship, service, and family.

For many, Whittaker’s legacy goes beyond the peak. He embodied a philosophy that combined bold exploration with a commitment to community and outdoor access. He was awarded the Hubbard Medal in recognition of his contributions to exploration and the outdoor world, a nod to a career defined by curiosity, endurance, and a willingness to take others along on the journey. Whittaker’s passing marks the end of an era for a figure who helped shape both American mountaineering and the modern outdoor industry.

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