Demna's Bold Vision: Gucci's Future Unveiled at Milan Fashion Week!
Demna's Bold Vision: Gucci's Future Unveiled at Milan Fashion Week!
Demna takes the runway at Milan Fashion Week, presenting his "complete personal vision" for Gucci. Discover how he plans to revive the luxury brand with a collection inspired by aristocrats, snobs, and eccentrics.
Milan Fashion Week was abuzz as Demna, the mononymic designer tasked with reinvigorating Gucci, unveiled his third collection for the iconic house. Staging his show in a purpose-built Gucci shop within a convention centre, Demna transformed the space with faux stone columns and marble slabs, mirroring the brand's new boutique aesthetic.
Guests, including celebrities like Romeo Beckham, Bianca Jagger, Cardi B, and Edward Norton, were immersed in an atmosphere designed to evoke the brand's new direction.
Demna, who joined Gucci last July, revealed that his initial year was dedicated to understanding the essence of Gucci. He described this latest show as his "complete personal vision" for the brand, emphasizing that Gucci is fundamentally about "luxury that wants to be seen." This new direction comes at a crucial time for the fashion giant, which saw its revenues nearly halve after a previous shift to minimalism under Sabato de Sarno, following Alessandro Michele's theatrical era.
Gucci's owner, Kering, is banking on Demna's proven track record, particularly his success in transforming Balenciaga into a luxury powerhouse. There are already promising signs; Kering reported a return to growth in July, crediting Demna's new collections. The pressure is on to accelerate this turnaround, with Kering's chief executive, Luca de Meo, stressing the importance of Gucci being "immediately recognisable and culturally pertinent."
Demna's collection was structured around three distinct archetypes: "the rebellious aristocrat, the snob and the eccentric," aiming for cross-generational appeal.
Menswear featured oversized tailoring, loafers, and tasselled slippers, replacing earlier muscle tees and skinny jeans. Jeans hung low on the hips, complemented by the brand's signature triple horse-bit belts positioned even lower.
Despite past statements, hoodies, a Demna staple at Balenciaga, also made an appearance.
For women, the collection explored "posh dress codes" with rugby tops and neat skirt suits.
Equestrian heritage was a key theme, visible in spiky-heeled, stirrup-motif riding boots and clingy white jodhpurs.
References to bourgeois Italian ladies, dubbed "nonnamaxxing" by TikTok, appeared in fuzzy coats and shawls paired with wiggly pencil skirts.
London's Sloane Rangers were also acknowledged through pleated A-line skirts in Scottish tartans and classic Oxford shirting. Demna's vision aims to bring Gucci back to its roots while infusing it with a fresh, visible luxury that promises to be a conversation starter and, hopefully, a profit driver for the ailing fashion house.
